CLIENT INFORMATION ON DOGS
Some dogs and cats are allergic to one or more proteins in their diet. "Food allergies" typically cause itchiness of the face, feet, ears and sometimes underarms and belly. Although they can start in pets as young as 4 months of age, they usually do not appear until the young adult years. Often this sensitivity slowly develops to a food the pet has been eating for years without problems. The itchiness of a food allergy occurs all year, unlike the seasonal itchiness associated with inhaled allergies or fleas. The most common allergens in foods are proteins found in beef, milk, wheat or soy, but other food components can cause allergies.
To test whether your pet has a food allergy, we will prescribe a special diet made from a protein source your pet has never eaten before. It is "special" because it will contain no other proteins, a single novel carbohydrate source, no colorings, no flavorings and no preservatives that might contribute to your pet's allergies. We carry several specially formulated test diets with a single novel protein source such as venison, duck, catfish (dogs) and lamb (cats).
Less than 5% of the itchy (pruritic) dogs have food allergies. Your veterinarian can help you decide if your pet has symptoms which are like to resolve on a hypoallergenic diet or whether other approaches would be more productive. If a diet trial is necessary our doctors will discuss exactly what you should do and will give you a written protocol to follow.
A call 9 weeks later and a follow-up visit at 11 weeks with the veterinarian will be used to determine how to best proceed after the diet trial. If the problem is resolved the doctor may switch you to a different hypoallergenic diet to reduce the chances of the problem reoccurring. If the itchiness persists a plan will be devised to investigate other causes.
CANINE HEAT CYCLES
Female dogs become sexually mature between 6 and 12 months of age. Smaller breeds reach puberty at a younger age than larger breeds. Most dogs go through a heat or estrus cycle every 5 to 10 months (7 months = average). The basenji cycles only once a year and german shepherds may cycle as often as every 4 months.
The canine heat cycle is divided into several stages based on the dog's behavior and physical signs:
PROESTRUS (pre-heat) = the period of time when a female dog attracts males but is not receptive to breeding. Females usually have a blood tinged vaginal discharge and a swollen firm vulva. Average = 9 days (range = 0 to 17 days)
ESTRUS (heat) = when the female dog will accept the male and stand for breeding. The vaginal discharge usually becomes clear (some dogs will continue to have a bloody discharge throughout) and the vulva less swollen. The bitch will "flag" or hold her tail off to the side when the male approaches. Average = 9 days (range = 3 to 21 days)
DIESTRUS = starts when the female will no longer allow breeding and ends when the ovaries stop producing the hormone progesterone. This period lasts about 65 days in the pregnant dog ending when the puppies are delivered, or 75 to 95 days in the non-pregnant dog. Progesterone may cause many false signs of pregnancy like nesting behavior and milk production even if the dog is not pregnant. "False pregnancy" resolves on its own when progesterone levels decline.
ANESTRUS = period between heat cycles when the uterus becomes smaller and inactive. This is the best time to spay a dog.
BREEDING MANAGEMENT It is best to wait until the third heat period (around 1 1/2 or 2 years of age) before breeding. Successful breeding is more likely if the dogs have had previous breeding experience. Most breeders advise taking the female dog to the male dog, as he will be more comfortable in his own territory. It may help to let the dogs get to know each other before she is in heat. Microscopic examination of vaginal smears is helpful in determining the optimal time to begin breeding. Blood tests which measure female hormones (Leutinizing hormone and progesterone) can also be used to predict when it is the optimal time to breed a dog. These tests are most valuable when artificial insemination is being done or if a bitch has a history of difficulty getting pregnant. Breeding is then allowed every 2 to 4 days until the female refuses to stand for breeding. Successful breeding involves a period of prolonged physical attachment of the male and female due to a localized swelling near the base of the penis (called a "tie"). Do not attempt to pull the dogs apart, this will occur naturally in 5 to 20 minutes.
A veterinarian using palpation and/or ultrasound at about 28 days after breeding can confirm pregnancy.
Average canine pregnancy = 65 days. Range = 57 to 68 days.
Having puppies at home can be a beautiful and exciting experience if things go right and you are prepared. It can become a nightmare if things go wrong which cause the death of part or even all of a litter or if a difficult birthing endangers the life of the mother dog (the bitch). Responsible pet owners are aware of the pet overpopulation problem in America and the huge number of unwanted pets which are destroyed each year. We do not recommend that the novice pet owner breed their dogs or cats. If you choose to go ahead and breed your pet please think about who will take care of the offspring and consider neutering her a couple of months after the litter is weaned. We recommend that, prior to breeding, purebred dogs be screened for any inherited traits known to exist in their breed. Keep in mind that most pet owners do not make money when they breed their purebred dog. If you want your children to see the miracle of birth please call our office to borrow a video tape.
The gestation of dogs is about 63 days (60-68). Record the date(s) that your dog was bred and calculate the range of days that she is due to whelp (give birth). Pregnancy can usually be confirmed by palpation (touch) or ultrasound at four weeks. There is no reliable way to determine the exact number of puppies. A close estimate of the number of fetuses can be made by x-ray in the last two weeks of pregnancy. X-rays may be advised for small breeds since they can have trouble giving birth (dystocia).
For the novice breeder, we advise that the bitch be examined by a veterinarian at four weeks after breeding to determine if the dog is pregnant, to answer your questions, to check the dogÕs general condition and discuss preparation for whelping. We will help you with questions such as how to make a whelping box, where to have the puppies and what to do if problems occur.
The bitchÕs diet should be a good quality adult stage commercial dog food during pregnancy. Providing she is not obese, the bitch should be given all the food she wants, especially in the second half of pregnancy. The bitchÕs diet should be switched from adult to puppy food on the day the puppies are born and continued until the pups are weaned. This will provide her with the extra nutrients (especially calcium) she will need. Do not give calcium supplements or calcium rich food during gestation.
A whelping box should be prepared at least a week before the pups are due and placed in a quiet part of the house. An inexpensive box can be made from heavy cardboard or for large dogs a plastic childÕs wading pool. The sides should be high enough to keep the puppies in and low enough that the bitch can step in without jumping . It should have plenty of room for mom to lie down and stretch out with room left over for the pups, but not so big that they will get lost. Line the bottom of the box with absorbent towels or sheets on top of newspapers. The birthing process will be messy with fluid and blood. Encourage the bitch to explore the box and spend time in it. You may want to play with her and feed her treats in her box so she feels comfortable with it. Have the materials listed below on hand for the whelping:
1. Clean rags or towels 2. Hot water bottle or heating pad. 3. Karo syrup 4. Scissors 5. Dental floss or heavy thread 6. Betadine solution or 2% iodine solution, (those are solutions not soaps).
Several days before whelping the bitch may exhibit nesting behavior, searching for a place to have the pups and carrying "nesting" material around in her mouth. The last day or two you may note, a decreased appetite, panting and anxiousness. In the last 24 hours there is a drop in rectal temperature from normal (101.0-102.5) to below 100.0. It is about 99.0 just before labor begins. If labor does not start within 24 hours of the sudden temperature drop, then a cesarean section may be needed. Monitor the bitchÕs rectal temperature twice a day with a human rectal thermometer during the last week .
The bitch will go into her box when whelping begins if she feels it is a safe, familiar and comfortable place. The area should be kept free of unnecessary noise and visitors. Once abdominal contractions begin (tightening of the belly muscles and straining as though trying to defecate) the first pup should come out within one hour. Subsequent pups should arrive within one hour of each other. Sometimes the bitch will take a break and stop pushing for up to two hours in the middle of delivering a large litter. However, straining or pushing for longer than 30 minutes for any individual puppy is too long. Breach positioned pups are not abnormal.
If a pup emerges part way and is not fully out within one minute it may be necessary to help pull it out. One person should hold the bitchÕs head while the other grasps the pup with a towel and gently but firmly pulls it out. After the pup comes out it may be still covered with the amniotic sac and attached to the bitch by the umbilical cord. The bitch should tear off the sac, chew through the cord and then lick the pup clean. If the bitch does not immediately do this you will need to help. Tear off the sac using a towel to grasp it, vigorously rub the pup to dry it and stimulate it to start breathing. Be sure the pup is breathing regularly before proceeding further. Cut the cord one to two inches from the puppyÕs belly (not too close !), apply betadine to the cut end of the cord and tie a knot around it with thread or floss if there is any bleeding. The placenta is attached to the other end of the umbilical cord. It is usually expelled at or soon after the birth or may be pulled out by the bitch. Often you can help remove it by applying slow steady traction to the cut end of the chord for several minutes. Dogs eat the placenta to keep the nest clean, but it is just as well removed and thrown away since it may cause indigestion and diarrhea. As the pups come out encourage them to nurse. Nursing, in addition to nourishing the pups, causes the release of a hormone that helps in milk production and contraction of the uterus.
Call us to set up a time to examine the bitch and pups several hours after labor is over (or the next morning) to assess their condition and to make sure all the pups have been delivered. An oxytocin hormone injection may be given at this time to stimulate uterine contractions which help "clean out" the uterus. The puppies will be checked for congenital defects and vigor.
During the first few days check frequently to be sure the pups are not under mom or "lost" in a corner. Small or weak pups may need help getting to and attached to a nipple. They may need protection from stronger pups that would push them off. It is not necessary to supplement the pups unless mom does not have normal milk production or the litter is very large ( over 8 pups). If a pup does get lost or is not strong enough to suckle it may become cold and/or its blood sugar may drop dangerously low. You can warm a pup by holding it close to you or using a heating pad on low . If weak and not eating, give it karo syrup (mixed 50:50 with water) using an eye dropper, after the puppy is warm. It is common for some puppies to die in the first few days, especially if it is a large litter.
Breeds that need dew claw removal or tail docking should have this done at three to five days. Very large breed are done at three days and very small breeds at five days.
Check the bitchÕs mammary glands daily for signs of infection such as redness or firm, lumpy swelling. Refusal of the puppies to nurse may be a sign of infected milk (mastitis). If mom is getting scratched, trim the puppies nails.
The bitch and pups should be wormed for roundworms every two weeks starting at four (4) weeks of age. Call our office to get this medication.
Most pups can start eating a gruel of puppy chow soaked in warm water and blended at four to five weeks and fully weaned at six to eight weeks. For ideal socialization the puppies should not be adopted out before eight weeks of age.
Puppies are given their first vaccines at eight weeks of age. We offer vaccines for the entire litter at a affordable price to help you get them started in the right direction before they go to new homes.
ITCHING (PRURITIS) - CAUSES AND TREATMENTS
At NoahÕs Ark Veterinary Clinic we recommend finding the cause of the itchiness and treating it specifically. Sometimes the cause is obvious on physical exam of the skin or found out after simple tests (like skin scrapings finding parasitic mites). If a probable cause is not evident or if the condition returns after treatment, then we recommend a systematic approach to search for the cause. This may require several visits, a variety of tests (discussed below) and some owner work, dedication and expense. Usually we can find the cause of why an individual is itchy. If we can't resolve the problem we will refer you to a veterinary dermatologist.
WHAT CAUSES IT AND WHAT CAN WE DO TO STOP IT.
1. Allergic reactions to flea bites. - Most common cause of seasonal pruritis in Goleta or Santa Barbara We rule out this diagnosis by fastidious flea control, history, seasonality and patient presentation. Best treatment is a comprehensive flea eradication program. Cortisone is sometimes used to stop the itching cycle while you get your program started.
2. Skin infections - Pustules or infected areas of dermatitis may be identified on examination but some cases are not obvious by visual characteristic alone. Often very itchy! ! ! May be secondary to fleas, other allergies, hormone disorders, heredity or poor immune system. Ruled out by trial of broad spectrum antibiotics (may need 3 to 8 weeks to cure deeper infections) and skin biopsy.
3. Seborrhea - flaky dandruff or greasy crusts (rancid fat odor). Symptomatic treatment with dietary adjustments and topical medicated shampoos, soaks and rinses, Need to look for the cause which include, low thyroid hormone, inherited, dietary deficiencies and self trauma secondary to fleas bites or allergies. Secondary bacterial infections are common.
4. Sarcoptic mange and other external parasites other than fleas- Contagious to animals and people. Very itchy. Sometimes we find them on skin scrapings (not always). Best diagnostic test is ivermectin injections two weeks apart. Demodectic mange - Usually hair loss without itching. Itching, if any, is from secondary bacterial infection. Usually can be diagnosed by skin scrapings. Mosquitoes , fly strike, ant bites. Others, like chiggers and chyletiella are uncommon in our area but we check for them on skin scrapings.
5. Fungal infections - Yeast and ringworm. Yeast are found on stained scrapings of skin surface or biopsy. Filamentous fungi (Mostly ringworm) are identified by fungal culture. Sometimes can be detected on skin surface with ultraviolet light.
6. Dietary deficiencies or special dietary needs. Diet history is important.. Use of vitamin, oil or mineral supplements. Some breeds are prone to specific deficiencies.
7. Dietary Allergies - Diagnosed by strict adherence to a trial hypoallergenic diet for eight weeks. Requires a prescription diet during this test period. See section on "Food Allergies" (click here)
8. Allergies to inhaled pollens, dusts, molds = "Atopy" - Diagnosis is based on history, physical, breed, seasonality and biopsy. Usually seasonal fall and spring, but may have some component all year around in the Santa Barbara area. Treatment - Skin testing by a dermatologist and hypo sensitization is the best treatment because it can cure the problem. About 70% are helped to some degree. Around 40% are cured. Blood tests that we send out are an alternative to skin testing. Avoidance is the easiest treatment but is difficult to achieve. Moving the pet out of the area, or using fine air filters in the home for inside pets are examples. Antihistamines can help but often do not cure the problem completely and may not help at all. May need to try several types. Derm Caps® are a nutritional supplement that contain oils which encourage the body to make its own antihistamine. Often use with antihistamines. Topical baths and soothing rinses remove irritants and reduce skin inflammation. Cortisone is a good choice if the season is very short. OK choice if nothing else works and a very small dose given every other day resolves the problem. Poor choice, due to potential side effects, if needed long term on a daily basis .
SKIN BIOPSIES - Small skin samples (4 to 6 mm circle) are taken from 3 to 5 representative locations and sent to a Veterinary Pathologist specializing in skin diseases. Biopsies tell us what processes are going on within the layers of the skin. This helps decide if the condition is an infection, allergy, hormone disorder, inherited disease or some rare condition and may identify parasites, bacteria and fungi that are not observable from the surface. A biopsy does not always give us a definitive answer, but it is the single most useful diagnostic tool for assessing what the skin is doing.
CORTISONE RISKS AND BENEFITS - WHEN TO USE
Most causes of itching can be stopped, at least temporarily, using cortisone injections or oral pills. Cortisone is appropriate for some skin conditions and the only cure for a few diseases involving excessive immune system responses. Cortisone will relieve the itch of some skin problems, like infections, while making the condition worse so that eventually the disease & itching is more severe.
We feel cortisone is medically appropriate for skin diseases when used for a short time once or twice a year in the following situations:
a) to get a patient out of a traumatic skin crisis so other specific treatments (including flea control) or diagnostic tests can be performed.
b) when an allergic problem is so seasonal that a short two or three week low dose course of cortisone once or twice a year is all that is necessary.
c) when allergies are so severe that other safer medications, topical treatments, dietary changes and hypo-sensitization fail to bring relief.
This is an infectious viral disease of dogs which primarily attacks the intestinal system. The symptoms of parvo infection are listlessness, bloody diarrhea and vomiting. Massive amounts of fluid and proteins are lost from the intestinal tract as its lining of cells die and are sloughed (shed). In severe cases this can lead to dehydration, shock and death. The disease is spread through exposure to feces (even very small amounts) from an ill dog. A dog may shed parvo virus in the feces before they show signs of illness.
PREVENTION - To prevent this disease puppies are given a series of three vaccinations beginning at eight weeks of age and adult dogs should have yearly boosters. Keep puppies way from other young dogs and all non-vaccinated dogs as well as public places like parks and beaches until one week after their third parvo vaccination. Once a dog already has this disease vaccinations are of no curative use.
TREATMENT - Treatment of this disease consists primarily of supportive care to correct or prevent dehydration and to reduce vomiting and diarrhea. In very mild cases this can be done at home with oral medications and nursing care. Usually vomiting and dehydration are severe and hospitalization is necessary so that intravenous fluids and injections for pain, vomiting and antibiotics can be given on a continuous or frequent basis. Fresh chilled canine plasma is beneficial in severe cases where body fluids and proteins have been depleted.
PROGNOSIS - Parvo viral enteritis is a very serious and potentially fatal disease, however most dogs will survive if given proper supportive care. This may require hospitalization.
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