DENTAL CARE FOR YOUR PET

1. WHAT IS TARTAR, PLAQUE, GINGIVITIS, PERIODONTAL DISEASE?

Tartar, dental calculus or plaque is the build up of food, bacteria, serum and mineral residues on the surface of your pets teeth. It is called plaque when it is soft and removable by brushing. Once it has mineralized and is tightly adhered to the tooth surface it is called calculus. Calculus is like a bacterial condominium complex in your pet's mouth. Gingivitis is inflammation of the gums, usually secondary to accumulation of tartar. Periodontal disease is the bone is being destroyed by plaque accumulation and bacterial decay. This usually occurs secondarily to gingivitis as the gums recede or become detached from the bone. The bone and roots may become exposed. Pockets, that trap food, may form between the gums (gingiva) and the bone. Gingivitis is fully reversible whereas periodontal disease is not. Just like your own teeth, it is best to have your pets teeth when a light layer of calculus is forming and before severe gingivitis has started and certainly before periodontal disease has set in.

2. CAN DIRTY TEETH BE HARMFUL TO MY PET?

Bacteria living under dental tartar will cause bad breath. Constant infection will cause gingivitis and loss of teeth. Bacteria from plaque can cause a tooth to abscess and become very painful or these bacteria may enter the bloodstream causing more severe internal infections. Once in the bloodstream bacteria may cause kidney, liver or heart disease by infecting these organs.

3. WHAT IS DONE WHEN MY PETS TEETH ARE CLEANED?

Dental cleaning is done with hand dental instruments and an ultrasonic cleaner while your pet is under general anesthesia. Severely infected or loose teeth are extracted. An antibiotic injection is given to prevent spread of infection. Prior to anesthesia a physical examination is done and a laboratory blood panel is recommended.

4. SHOULD I BRUSH MY PETS TEETH?

Yes. You should try to brush at least once a day. If you do it every other day it will probably help some but less than frequently is of questionable use.

5. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO?

Some dry diets when used as your dogs sole source of food have been shown to reduce the rate of tarter buildup. Ask you veterinarian which one she/he recommends. Do not allow your dog to chew on bones as this frequently leads to broken teeth. Dried rawhide pieces, pigs ears or nylabones are safer chewing alternatives and may help some with tarter accumulation. Have your veterinarian assess your pets teeth at his or her yearly physical examination.

FLEA CONTROL MADE SIMPLE AND SAFE

The following recommendations are intended to prevent or eliminate fleas without the need to spray insecticides around your house and yard. This simple protocol is intended to minimize your family's and your pet's exposure to insecticides.

1. Give PROGRAM¨ flea hormone orally to all your pets once a month all year. This product sterilizes adult fleas. It insures that flea eggs are not slowly building up in your home environment even before the flea season starts. It is a flea hormone, not an insecticide.

2. Use ADVANTAGE¨ or FRONTLINE¨ for 2 months on all of your pets if you have an outbreak of fleas. If you are starting with a heavy flea infestation you should use these products for three months (start Program¨ also). If all the pets have been on Program¨ for three or more months, and you are just seeing a few fleas, then try using these insecticides for only one month.

These newer insecticides (Frontline¨ and Advantage¨) are extremely effective in killing adult fleas and are much safer than the ones we had to choose from several years ago. They work by floating on the outside of your pet's skin. Despite the apparent safety of these new products, we believe that it is best to limit chemical exposure to people in the family when there are other alternatives (Program¨) which are safe for our pets. These topical products should not be applied within 48 hours after a bath as this will reduce their effectiveness. This is because they require the natural oils on your pets fur to spread over the skin surface. Apply at a time when the pet will be active but will not be handled by family members for the next 8 hours (like just before going to work). Wash your hands after application and carefully read the label before using Advantage, Frontline or any insecticide.

WORMS - WHAT KIND AND HOW DO I KNOW IF MY PET HAS THEM?

FECAL EXAMS ARE HOW WE DETECT WORMS IN YOUR PETS

We advise doing a test called a "fecal floatation" as soon as you adopt a new dog or cat and then once a year for the following two years.

WHY DO A FECAL WHEN I CAN SEE WHEN MY PET HAS WORMS? Because the only worm the owner sees is the tapeworm. You will not see any of the roundworms which are a health hazard to both you and your pet. The fecal test looks for several worms that are not detected by the owner because the large visible adult stage seldom leaves the host. A "fecal" looks for the microscopic eggs of these worms. The eggs can last for over a year in the soil and are the contagious form. "Roundworms" or ascarids are the only common round worm in this area (California) but we also check for other worms such as hookworms and whipworms. Non-worm protozoan parasites (single celled creatures) that infect your petÕs intestine such as coccidia and giardia are also detected on a fecal.

WE TREAT FOR WORMS TO PROTECT YOUR PET'S HEALTH Veterinarians are most concerned about Roundworms because the larva (babies) of these worms migrate through internal organs causing damage to the host (dog or cat). We are also concerned with the adult worms which live in the intestinal tract causing irritation and interfering with digestion of food. This results in reduced growth, decreased resistance to disease, poor coat condition and enlarged (pot) bellies, intestinal upsets and damage to internal organs.

WE TREAT FOR WORMS TO PROTECT YOU AND YOUR CHILDRENÕS HEALTH Roundworms are a hazard to humans because, if the microscopic eggs are eaten, the larval migration can occur in people. This is of greatest concern with children since they are more likely to put fingers in their mouths ingesting small amounts of dirt which may contain eggs. Roundworms do not develop to their adult stage in people. In people the larva migrate from the intestines to the inside of the body and then they get lost. Most cases involve only a few larva and are asymptomatic. Larger numbers of larva cause a variety of symptoms such as fevers, enlarged livers, lung disease and the rarely eye problems. About 2.8% of the human population tests positive for previous exposure to roundworms.

HOW DID MY DOG/CAT GET ROUNDWORMS (ASCARIDS) ? Many puppies and kittens get ascarids directly from their mother because the microscopic larva or immature form migrates across the placenta directly into the developing fetus so that the pups/kittens are born with worms. The larva are also shed into the nursing motherÕs milk. If the queen or bitch had roundworms as a puppy, she will transmit the larva to her offspring even if she was properly wormed and "cured" of roundworms when she was young. That is because the worming medication kills the adult but does not kill the dormant stage which forms inactive larval cysts in the muscle tissues. Pregnancy activates the development of these cysts re-infecting the mother and her offspring.

WHAT ARE THE TAPEWORMS I SAW AND HOW DID MY DOG/CAT GET THEM? The worm that owners commonly see coming out with a cat or dogs stool or on their hair is a tapeworm (a Flatworm). This worm is commonly detected by the owner because the small rice sized, shinny, flat segments are intermittently shed into the feces. The most common tapeworm is transmitted to pets through the ingestion of an infected flea. Each small worm segment from your pet is full of eggs which are only contagious to fleas. This segment is the last piece of a long worm attached inside your petÕs intestines. If you pet develops tapeworms just call and we will dispense a pill called Droncit which is nearly 100% effective killing tapeworms in a single dose.

GERIATRIC PET CARE QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Aging effects animals in much the same ways has people. Older animals have more medical problems and they are more susceptible to diseases as their immune system and internal organs slow down. Dietary requirements change with age as some pets becoming fat from inactivity while others become thin due to a reduced ability to digest their food. Pets get arthritis, they slow down, some loose senses of hearing and sight and senility can effect behavior patterns.

WHEN IS YOUR PET OLD? That varies with the species, breed, and somewhat by individual. Thel life expectancy for cats is 12 to 15 years although some live up to 20 years. Dogs life spans vary widely (8 to 15 years) with smaller breeds generally living longer than large ones. Most dogs and cats are considered geriatric patients as they arrive at eight to nine years.

WHAT CAN I DO TO AVOID MEDICAL PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH AGING? Regular exercise, and a healthy diet are essential. Good dental care and up to date vaccines prevent many common problems. A yearly blood profile is useful to identify weak or failing organ systems before a crisis situation arises. An annual physical examination is essential as each year of your pet's life is like six or seven years in a hman's life.

WHAT TYPES OF THINGS CAN WE DETERMINE FROM BLOOD TESTS? We accumulate a vast array of information about how things are working internally from a singe blood sample. We screen for hormone disorders, like hypothyroidism (dogs), hyperthyroidism (cats), diabetes, Addisons and Cushings disease. Essential organs like the liver, pancreas and kidneys are checked for proper function and health. The white blood cell count tell us about the immune system and evidence of infection. The red blood count and body protein levels tells us whether a pet is anemic, about the level of nutrition, vitamin deficiency and state of hydration. Blood tests can detect evidence of some types of cancers.

WHY DO WE RECOMMEND BLOOD PANELS PRIOR TO ANESTHESIA? Information from a blood panel is invaluable prior to an older animal being anesthetized for surgery or dentistry. We decrease risk by modifying our anesthetic procedure to compensate for a weak or failing organ system. Dehydrated animals or those with weak kidney function benefit from receiving fluids prior to anesthetics. Sometimes we delay an anesthetic procedure until infections are controlled, dehydration is corrected or nutrition deficiency is reversed. Occasionally we decide not to perform a procedure because the lab test shows a condition so severe the risk of anesthetic complications is too high.

IF MY OLDER PET SEEMS HEALTHY WHY DO A BLOOD PANEL? Annual blood screens can prolong and add to the quality of life in later years. By catching problems early, correcting deficiencies, and treating medical problems promptly we can slow the progression of some diseases and avoid a crises situation. Normal blood values are a valuable baseline to compare to if your pet later falls ill. If your pet requires emergency treatment or surgery previous chemistry profiles help us choose the best drugs or anesthetics to reflect any special conditions your pet has.

SPAYS AND NEUTERS

OUR PHILOSOPHY We neuter your pet in exactly the same way we would want our own animals to be done. We know that most clients wish their pets to have the best modern veterinary care available when it comes to major surgical procedures. Safety, cleanliness and patient comfort are of the utmost concerns. All patients are put on a respiratory monitoring device as a safety precaution. We feel that pain management should be a part of any major surgery.

WHY SHOULD I NEUTER MY CAT OR DOG?

l. Each year millions of animals are euthanized because no one wants them. Many thousands of pets are destroyed each year because not one wants them.

2. Spaying eliminates having to keep your pet away from male animals during estrus. It stops the messy bloody discharge characteristic of the pre-estrus stage in dogs.

3. Neutering male dogs and cats greatly reduces their tendency to fight and therefore helps prevent injuries and the spread of disease. Injuries are reduced because neutered pets roam the neighborhood much less.

4. Spraying or urine marking is the way male cats define their territory. Cats begin to spray at 6 to 12 months of age. Neutering at an early age usually prevents this unpleasant but normal behavior.

5. Dramatically decreases the incidence of medical problems like breast cancer in female dogs (their #1 serious cancer) and prostate disease in males.

WHEN SHOULD MY PET BE NEUTERED?

We recommend that dogs and cats are spayed or neutered at six months. This is about the time when they become sexually mature. If you wait longer your pet may come into estrus or "heat". The surgery is more complicated while the animal is in heat. If you choose to wait until after the first estrus cycle you must confine your pet or risk an unwanted pregnancy. Spays and neuters can be done as early as 8 weeks of age.

WHAT IS DONE DURING A SPAY OPERATION? The word spay means to neuter a female animal. This is accomplished by surgically removing the ovaries and the entire uterus. The arteries and veins to each ovary and those to the uterus must be tied off with suture to prevent bleeding when these structures are removed. Each structure is tied off twice to insure there is no bleeding. We use absorbable synthetic sutures which the body removes once it has done its job. The muscular body wall is repaired at the incision site with absorbable sutures. In dogs an additional layer of sutures is placed in the subcutaneous tissue between the body wall and the skin. The skin is usually closed with a synthetic suture which must later be removed.

IS THIS A MINOR OR MAJOR SURGERY? A spay is major abdominal surgery. It involves entering the abdomen which is the interior section of the body containing the liver, kidneys,intestines and other organs. Strict sterility must be maintained to prevent infection and transfer of disease from other animals or the environment. Sterile disposable surgical gloves are worn and gown and instrument packs are heat sterilized (autoclaved) between every patient. Prior to surgery the surgical area is shaved, washed three times with an iodine soap, swabbed three times with alcohol and then sprayed with an iodine antiseptic.

WHAT TYPE OF ANESTHESIA DO YOU USE? Surgical patients are given a pre-anesthetic injection of a tranquilizer and atropine. The tranquilizer which alleviates the animal's fears of being with new people in a foreign place. It decreases the amount of anesthetic needed during the surgery, smoothes out the recovery and reduces post-surgical discomfort. Atropine reduces fluid secretions in the mouth and windpipe preventing any obstruction of breathing by these thick fluids. It also decreases the anesthetic risk in that it supports the cardiovascular system by increasing blood pressure and heart rate. Anesthesia is induced with an injection into a vein of a short acting liquid anesthetic. When the patient becomes unconscious a tube is placed into the windpipe to insure an open airway and for the delivery of gas anesthetic and oxygen. Gas is used during the rest of the surgery because it is the safest way to maintain anesthesia and allows for a quick recovery.

WHAT IS THE RECOVERY LIKE? We keep spays at the hospital over one night to assure that there are no complications and to give your pet an evening to rest without distractions. We watch them for any evidence of internal bleeding or infection and to be sure the patient is not chewing at the skin sutures. We find that after one or two days most patients are active, alert, eating well and ready to go about their usual routine. We ask our clients to keep their pets inside for observation and to prevent excessive exercise for the first 10 to 14 days.

PAIN MANAGEMENT. We recommend that all patients go home with oral medication to reduce any discomfort during the first few days a home. We feel that no pet should have to suffer post-surgical discomfort when medications are available to prevent it. The signs of pain may be very subtle and not be noticed by the owner. Many pets are very tolerant and will not complain.

WHEN DO THE SUTURES COME OUT? The sutures on the surface of the skin are removed in 10 to 14 days. We request that you bring your pet back for suture removal so we can check the incision for proper healing. There is no additional charge for removing sutures. Underneath the skin are absorbable sutures which hold the muscular body wall together. This is the important layer as it is the tension holding layer which prevents herniation of abdominal contents. We use a synthetic suture at this level because we have found it provides good strength during the healing process but is quickly removed by the body when it is no longer needed.